The wind was picking up and I wanted to get going, as we would be facing the wind for about 10km while paddling to the upper end of Cauchon Lake. We paddled over to the start of the portage to Windermere Creek and started to explore. While Angela followed the portage trail proper, I followed the creek. I could hear the sound of water falling and this fit the bill for what I was looking for. Apparently there used to be some type of power generating facility here that used the water falling over the rocks to turn a waterwheel connected to a turbine. How cool would that be to find out here? I followed the sound of the water and a very faint trail to one of the most scenic water falls in Algonquin Park. It’s not huge, or have massive volumes of water flowing over it, but it’s tucked away in a little hollow of land which creates a bit of an echo. Arriving at the ruin site, I immediately knew I was looking at the right place, even though the entire structure had collapsed. There was evidence of power generating equipment here, along with tools, structures and even an in-tact glass window in one of the collapsed walls. I called out to Angela to see it. She came over and was equally impressed. We both photographed the area and the waterfalls then just sat back for a while and took it all in.
After allowing some time to pass, we returned to the campsite and to our dismay the parents seemed to have given up and swam out to the middle of the bay, while the youngster was still hanging out at the rock. ‘Raccoon food.’ I thought to myself, thinking I guess this is the way it goes sometimes. Well, Angela was not having any of that. She asked if we should deliver the youngster to his parents out in the bay. I declined the request, citing the fact that we should not be interfering with the natural order of things. I said, ‘what if this is the way its supposed to happen, and a raccoon is now fed tonight instead of starving?’ but she rebutted ‘what if we are the reason they became separated in the first place?’ She had a point there. As we approached the island, we did see the two loons – but absolutely no sign of a chick. Maybe it was close to shore and we came between them? I can’t say for sure one way or another, so she had me thinking.
A bear swims across the south bay of Erables Lake
tr 62: Little Cauchon - Erables - Nadine - Nipissing
Day 2: Little Cauchon Lake to Erables Lake
6:05am and I am out of the tent. I try not sleep in while out in Algonquin – the early hours of the morning are my favorite. Everything is still so quite and the forest is just beginning to come alive with the songs of many birds. This morning was a little more special than others, it was very foggy out and it must have rained hard throughout the night. I grabbed my camera and began to take photos up and down the lake. It was such a beautiful morning. I untied the food from the tree and set up my stove away from the tent, as to not wake Angela. With water in the pot and the pot on the stove, I was eagerly awaiting my first cup of coffee. I may have had a little more wine than I should have the night before – but I had too – I didn’t want to carry it across 6 portages today. With the water boiled I made a coffee, grabbed my chair and sat down next to the shore. Just looking around and across the lake, enjoying the view and the silence. It had that August feel to it, cool dewy mornings and it felt like it could be a hot day. I relaxed by the lake for about an hour enjoying two cups of coffee while there. About an hour and a half after I woke up, Angela emerged from the tent. She was trying out a new sleeping pad and slept very well. Good thing too, because we will be travelling nearly 27 km today with 6 portages totalling over 5600m. A tough day indeed!
Looking out onto a beautiful and marshy Club Lake
Bacon, eggs & breakfast potatoes - can't argue with that
While paddling the marsh lands known as Club Lake, Angela mentioned that this was her favorite spot in Algonquin to date. She loves the marshlands and wetlands. For most of the journey across the lake Angela took pictures while I slowly paddled. As we approached the lower end of the lake a few dark clouds rolled in and I thought it would rain any moment now. Luckily, it didn’t! We crossed Club Lake and arrived at the marshy entrance to Mink Creek. At the mouth of the creek we saw two couples looking all around, as if they had lost something. I paddled to the entrance of the creek and one of the guys was out on the muskeg, looking west. I said ‘What’re you looking for?’ and he replied, ‘The portage to Mouse Lake.’ Man, he was waaay off and looking back at it, if I didn’t come through who knows how long he would’ve been looking there – he was nowhere near it. ‘It’s way down there at the end of this creek’ I shouted while pointing southeast. ‘Trust me, I’ve been through here before.’ That line must have convinced him because he didn’t seem too interested in my first response. Meanwhile, the other couple was trying to find their way through the tall grasses into the creek proper – the entrance to Mink Creek from Club Lake can be hidden and if you take the wrong channel, chances are you’re going to have to get your feet wet, or turn around and try again. When Angela and I first arrived at the tall grasses, we went down the wrong channel and saw this couple. There was a tiny channel in front of them leading to the main creek, but you’d have to get out to make it – and that’s what this couple planned to do. Well, perhaps the guy planned this and the girl had no choice but she did not look impressed at the idea of stepping out into this creek. I looked at the creek, looked at Angela and said ‘Let’s paddle around.’ We went the long way around and it only took a couple minutes. Just as they were stumbling through the mud up to their waist and finally reaching the creek, we paddled by dry as a bone. The girl looked especially pissed and we got a little evil eye, because you know there were leaches in there!
A tranquil little waterfall sits just next to the ruins
At around 12:30pm we arrived at a little island close to the end of Cauchon Lake and decided to take a break behind it, out of the wind. Our arms were tired and I was a little hungry. We relaxed and had another snack and water. I had a déjà vu moment as I suddenly remembered breaking at this very same spot back in 2012 for the same reason. With a little more energy we made the push to the end of the lake – but not before first trying to pass the island on the west side, which was a fail as it’s not really an island as much as it is a jettison of land. We backtracked and went around the other way, eventually making our way to the landing of the portage to Mink Lake. I made sure to pay attention to the last campsite on the Cauchon Lake as I remembered making a mental note about it back in 2012 while on a previous trip. I couldn’t remember what made me think it would be an awesome site (it does have an interesting view) but I was glad I would get to see it today. Well, I have no idea what I was thinking in the past, because as we approached the campsite I immediately knew I would never stay there unless I had to. It’s not that it was horrible, it was just a small patch of land at the bottom of a steep hillside. It didn’t stand out in any way, shape or form. There are much better campsites on Cauchon Lake. Strange, perhaps I was thinking of somewhere else.
We arrived at the landing for the portage to Mink Lake and I told Angela this one isn’t too bad, nor is it very long. We managed to cross it in about ten minutes. We stopped here for lunch – once again Salami sandwiches with mustard on a bagel. This is my favorite lunch in Algonquin because it takes mere minutes to assemble, is simple/clean to eat and provides a lot of energy. After eating, we made a quick launch onto Mink Lake and Angela’s heart sank when she looked up the lake towards Kiosk with the wind blowing hard in our face then says ‘Oh no, please no.’ I assured her we are not headed that way, and will only be on this lake for a few minutes. We crossed the lower end of the lake and entered Mink Creek. A beautiful little creek but too short, as the portage appeared within a minute.This was a slightly longer trail at 1165m but from what I remembered it was fairly flat and follows and old railway spur for most of its length. It also has the added bonus of a really cool ruin structure at the other end. There was a canoe and some other gear at the landing, so I figured someone was double carrying. Once again we loaded up and began down the trail. We walked for about ten minutes then stopped for a break. I figured we were about half way down this trail. It was getting a little hot out and I was beginning to miss the coolness provided by the wind – but my arms weren’t. After a five minute break we loaded back up and continued down the trail, passing two gentlemen on the way who were headed back for their second load of gear. Another ten minutes of walking and we reached the marshy end of Club Lake. I took the boat right down to the landing then came back up to check out the old lumber building with Angela. I had been here twice before, so I wasn’t as interested in it as she was – but still, this is a very cool structure. We took several photographs and decided to continue on. It was now 2:10pm and we still had 13km and 4 portages to go.
It was a cool little cabin; some think it may have been an ice house as it’s pretty small – but who knows really. Satisfied with finding out second ruin location of the trip, we continued up Little Cauchon Lake to our next target. This next spot was recently disclosed to me by a fellow tripper who had visited the site some 20 years earlier. I was told I would find it along Windermere Creek. I figured the best starting point was the portage to Windermere Lake so we headed over there. While paddling around the point of land that divides the two portages, I noticed a foundation and some ruins there. We pulled over and found a massive foundation, along with a few areas that had log walls. This was an impressive place, but a little less so because by the look of the materials, this probably wasn’t very old – maybe 50 or 60 years – or less. It was still very cool and we spent about 20 minutes photographing the area.
The exterior front of the little cabin along the portage to Gouinlock Lake
The bigger of the two waterfalls, this is the main power house structure
Ruins at the Club Lake end of the portage from Mink Lake
Photo: Angela Peek
The cutest little baby loon you’ve ever seen – So happy we managed to save this little guy!
The unexpected foundation on the point of land between the Gouinlock and Windermere portages
‘If they smell us on their baby, they’ll likely abandon it anyway.’ I claimed. ‘I’ll wear the rubber fish gloves – they probably like the smell of fish!’ she replied. How can you argue with that? Reluctantly I put the canoe in the water while Angela secured the baby loon. She got in the canoe and I headed out to the middle of the south-west bay. I looked around and couldn’t see the parents anymore, neither could Angela. I paddled some more as I figured they were fishing under water. A moment later I saw them appear just to our right. This actually worked out perfectly for two reasons, 1 – the wind would carry the scent of the youngster to them, and 2 – If they disappeared underwater, the wind would blow the chick in their general direction while we make our getaway.
I paddled quickly but quietly and we were within about 30 feet of the parents. My goal was to paddle by quickly, releasing the bird as soon as we’re parallel to the parents then continuing on and out of there quickly. The plan was in motion; I was moving at a good pace when suddenly one of the parents went under. ‘Get ready’ I whispered to Angela. ‘Now!’ I said a few seconds later. With that, she gently released the chick over the edge of the canoe and into the water, and then the other parent went under. ‘Shit!’ I said, but continued to paddle quickly as to vacate the area. ‘Where are they? Where are they??’ Angela asked. Then, just at that moment they popped up. The chick was still peeping away and the plan worked, he was blown closer to them. Within seconds they were reunited. It was the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen in Algonquin. Minutes ago I’m sure these birds had assumed their young was dead and gone, heck even I was convinced of the same – but here they are, alive and well. For about 5 minutes I didn’t paddle or speak, nor did Angela. We just watched. It almost sounds made up but the loon family literally swam off down the bay into the sunset-lit water. Like I said, it was the most beautiful experience I’ve had in Algonquin.While paddling back to the campsite, we didn’t say anything to each other. We just made our way back to the island in silence. I couldn’t believe what we just did, nor could I believe it actually worked. I told Angela I’m glad we went with her gut instinct instead of mine. I know you shouldn’t mess with Nature, but seeing those birds reunited removed any doubt I had about helping. I was really happy. What a way to end an already super long day. By this point Angela and I were both mentally and physically exhausted. It was almost 9pm and we hadn’t started dinner, collected wood or even set up the tent! Luckily tonight’s dinner was relatively easy to make – Butter Chicken on a bed of Indian style rice. I set up the stove and began to boil some water and in the mean time set up the tent so Angela could set up the interior. Nighttime had arrived so I grabbed my headlamp and quickly scoured the island for some firewood. There wasn’t much around but enough to have a quick fire while eating dinner. With the rice and chicken ready to go, I grabbed some dry pine needles and got the fire going. We sat down in our chairs and while eating as fast as humanly possible (did I mention it was a long and tough day?) as we talked about the day. It was certainly a long one, with several ruin locations in the morning and two very memorable wildlife encounters in the evening.
While walking back to the boat, we talked about how we’ve barley been there for 24 hours and have already found 4 of the many ruins sites we came out to see, and there were still plenty more! Back in the canoe and we began the long paddle up Little Cauchon Lake. Unfortunately, the wind was not as kind as it was yesterday and the paddle was a bit of a struggle. It took us a long time to reach the bridges that divide Little Cauchon Lake from Cauchon Lake. By the time we arrived at Cauchon Lake, I was pretty tired and not looking forward to the rest of the day. A quick snack, some water and a few minutes’ rest then we continued into the wind and up the lake. I had wanted to show Angela the damage to the forest behind the first campsite from a tornado a few years back, but with the wind blowing as hard as it was, I just wanted to get to the end of the lake, as by then our route direction should take us out of the prevailing winds.
Photo: Angela Peek
Approaching our island paradise on Erables lake
Part of this building had cabin-style log walls, perhaps additions to the original structure
A closer look at the ruins of the collapsed structure
The moon rising above the trees on Erables Lake.
She began to dance and splash water in an effort to distract us from her young
Dinner was done and the dishes washed up, it wasn’t long before I hung the food and we both hit the sack. I just knew I would sleep good tonight. We were in bed by 11:00pm and asleep by 11:01!
With a cup of coffee on the go, Angela made breakfast while I took down the tent. Today we had a semi-luxurious camping breakfast. Real eggs, bacon and hash browns. It was amazing and filling. I don’t know that I would eat that much for breakfast again though, I almost didn’t feel like going anywhere after that. With everything packed up, we hit the water at 9:45am. There are two planned stops along the way today – both of which are on Little Cauchon Lake. We had hoped to visit a third ruin location on the other side of the lake too, but yesterdays wind and rain prevented that from happening, so we’re saving it for another time. The first ruin I wanted to check out was an old cabin along the portage to Gouinlock Lake. I had seen it in another trip report and wanted to add it to my ruins collection. We paddled over and in only a few minutes arrived at the trail to Gouinlock Lake. Within seconds I looked to my right and saw the collapsed cabin. ‘That was easy’ I thought to myself. However, while photographing it I wasn’t so sure this was the same cabin I saw in the trip report – the logs looked different from what I remembered. Oh well, I doubt there are two cabins on this portage, so I must have been thinking of something else (Little did I know, there actually are two cabins on that trail and this wasn’t the one I was targeting).
The interior of the same little cabin
Then something strange happened. Within about two minutes of landing on the campsite a couple of loons who were swimming just off shore began to freak out. And when I say freak out, I seriously mean freak out. I’ve never seen or heard any loon do what these two were doing – and they wouldn’t stop or go away. It was very, very odd. I started pondering why they would act in this way, then thought there may be a nest nearby. I looked all around the shoreline and campsite for a loon’s nest, but there was none. The whole time I was searching the loons were still making their insane calls while flapping and dancing on the water. I was truly puzzled, so was Angela. You could hear the stress in the voice of these birds, but I couldn’t understand why. Then suddenly I heard something. I told Angela to listen and she heard it too. ‘Peep peep peep peep!’ I could hear the tiny calls of a baby bird, but I didn’t know where it was coming from. Angela could hear it too but was also unable to find the location. We looked around and suddenly spotted a baby loon, floating in the water among the reeds. He was peeping a lot and when he saw us, he swam directly towards us and up to the rocky shoreline where he sat there, peeping away. Meanwhile the parents were still losing their minds trying to call the baby bird back. He just wouldn’t listen. He stayed next to the rock for a while and then at one point he began to swim out to the lake towards his parents. Angela and I were so happy; he was finally figuring it out! Then for whatever reason, he turned around and headed back to the safety of the rock where he stayed and continued peeping away. I told Angela we need to disappear for a while and maybe the parents will come retrieve him. We grabbed some drinks and walked through the forest to the other campsite and remained there for about 20 minutes.
Beautiful shadows on the lower end of Erables Lake
Approaching the bridge that divides the two Cauchon Lakes
With the bear off into the woods, we continued paddling and approached the first campsite on the right, which looked like it would be a haven for mosquitoes and other biting insects. We continued through the narrows and entered Erables Lake proper. Looking at the southern most mainland campsite and not being impressed, we continued to the original target on the island. Once around the corner and with the island in view, I immediately knew I wanted to stay there. It just looked so beautiful with the sun and clouds off in the distance. Passing the first campsite, we opted for the western most site. We finally made our landing at 6:30pm and though exhausted we were both really happy with our new home for the evening. This campsite is on a southern point so you get both sunrise and sunset from anywhere on the site. It had solid benches and great tent pads. It’s a little too close to the neighbouring campsite, so if it was occupied I would be less inclined to stay here – but it wasn’t, so we did!
This loon is calling out and sounding very stressed
Photo: Angela Peek
We paddled down the creek with the other two couples behind us, eventually arriving at the portage to Mouse Lake. Once again it was a short portage at 610m so we geared up and made the move. I was starting to feel like we were loosing too much time and it was causing me a little stress. We still had 3 portages after this one, two of which are around 1500m. Once again we made a quick crossing of this trail and wasted no time paddling across a very round Mouse Lake. The wind kicked up again but it didn’t really affect us as we were sort of headed in the same direction. While crossing the lake I pointed out a beautiful beach campsite I had stayed at previously and before we knew it we were on the other side of the Lake. Another portage and a decent one at that - 1705m so we knew this one would take some time. The plan was to tackle it in chunks, the first being the smallest as there was quite a bit of uphill until you hit the logging road.
We loaded up and began the carry. Both of us were getting tired and the weight of our packs plus the uphill was beginning to take its toll. After only 7 or 8 minutes we stopped for a rest and some water. A few minutes later we continued on and were able to go for a bit longer as the trail had finally levelled out. About 2/3 of the way through the trail we stopped for another break and some water, this time hanging out for five minutes or so to regain some energy. I looked at the GPS and we had about 500m to go, so I told Angela if we just walk for about 8 solid minutes we would be at the other end. Eventually, we made it to the creek and we were both happy that portage was over. Angela was tired but I wanted to get moving so I told her she could chill out in the front of the canoe with a snack, while I paddle us down Mink Creek. This gave her a short 20-minute break. This part of Mink Creek is really beautiful, surrounded by young pine growth – almost feels a little boreal. A little under 20 minutes later and we arrived at the take out for P190 portage leading into Big Thunder Lake. Originally I wanted to stay here tonight but unfortunately it was booked, so we decided to push on to Erables. We crossed the short trail in less than five minutes. I’ve always wanted to paddle Mink Creek right to the lake and see the waterfalls along the way, but today wasn’t the day to do it. While on the portage, some really dark clouds rolled in – it felt like 8pm! I had a feeling we are in for a drenching.
We took a chance and decided to paddle across Big Thunder Lake but remained very close to shore, in case lightning appeared. Well, let me tell you, Big Thunder Lake surely lived up to its name today. About half way across the lake, some of the loudest crackling and thunder I’ve every heard began. You could actually feel the ‘booms’. We couldn’t see any lightning and it wasn’t raining yet. We decided to make a super fast push to our final portage. A few minutes of nerve-trembling paddling and we arrived at the landing to P1495 to Erables Lake. Angela put her rain jacket on for this trail, I left mine off as I would be under the canoe anyway. We loaded up and within seconds of taking our first steps, the clouds opened up and it just poured on us. Very thick, very hard rain. We continued down the trail and the forest cover helped a little, but there were a few points in which so much water was dripping off the boat I began to laugh to myself, thinking ‘How ironic, the bottom of the boat is wet either way today.’ Just one of many silly thoughts one has while crossing a long portage. We walked for a solid ten minutes through the rain and I shouted out to Angela, asking if she wanted to take a break. She was good and I was too, so we decided to keep walking. This trail is relatively flat and easy to work with, however one section is a bit of a boulder garden and requires extra time when its slippery due to rain. Surprisingly, after another fifteen minutes we arrived at the other end of the portage. I couldn’t believe we walked the entire distance without taking a break. It took about a half hour to walk the trail, and the rain kept us encouraged as it lasted for the first 20 minutes or so.Finally, the last portage of the day was complete. The rain had stopped and there were patches of a soon-setting-sun here and there. We were both very tired. It was a long day with a lot of portaging and we still weren’t at our campsite – but we are on the destination lake. It’s 6pm but we only had a little over a km or so of paddling to go, I was targeting the western campsite on the southern most island of the lake. Happy to see the rain gone, we took our time paddling across the lower end of Erables Lake. About half way across I saw something moving in the water, it kind of looked like a moose but it was moving pretty fast. ‘Get you zoom lens out; I think that’s a moose up there.’ I said quietly while continuing to paddle. With her zoom lens setup, Angela holds up the camera and takes a few shots. ‘It’s a bear!’ she exclaimed. ‘What?! Are you sure?’ I asked. ‘It’s definitely a bear!’ She replied. I was so happy – finally, it happened. I’ve been tripping in Algonquin for years and I have never seen a bear while out on a canoe trip. In fact, the first bear I’ve seen within the boarder of Algonquin Park was just the day before, the one that ran across the road in front of the pickup truck. So here at the end of our super long and exhaustive day, we have a bear swimming across the lake – and boy can they swim fast! We watched quietly as he made it to the south shore of the lake and clambered out onto a rock then disappeared into the forest. Both Angela and I were in awe at this sighting, and I loved every second of it.
Paddling the marshy narrows between the upper and lower sections of Club Lake
Little Cauchon Lake to Erables Lake
Photo: Angela Peek
A quick look at the campsite before packing up
TOURduPARK