TOURduPARK
Huge fire to warm up & burn all garbage / food scraps
Lake Trout with fresh lemon, fresh baked bannock & a side of pasta primavera - potato's still roasting
Dinner almost ready!
We enjoyed a huge feast, then cleaned up the dishes and hung the food. A few more logs on the fire and we both relaxed with a couple of whiskey sours. We stayed up for about an hour, enjoying a couple drinks and the ability to sit by the fire without being manhandled by mosquitos and black flies. Shortly after 11pm, we both were tired and decided to hit the hay.
Our dinner for night 3 - two fresh Algonquin Lake Trout
With the bugs in mind, I began to set up the bug shelter so we could have a peaceful place to eat and relax. It didn’t take long to get camp all set up and by 3:30pm I was really itching to take a swim – both to cool down and to clean up. Angela also wanted to bathe so we looked around the campsite for a suitable spot to go for a swim. The shoreline of this campsite isn’t ideal for swimming – it’s all bushy and shrubby and even the canoe landing is less than ideal. We decided to hop in the canoe and head up the lake a bit further to see if there was a more suitable place to go for a swim. We paddled all the way up to the cliffs and even up Greenleaf Creek a little bit. Nothing. It’s just too rocky and rugged, and the few giant rocks we did find were swarmed with bugs, so Angela wasn’t having any of that. As we started back to camp, we spotted a big slab of rock with a rather steep slope leading into the water. It looked like it would do, but when we pulled up to it we realized the angle of the slope was close to 45 degrees – or more – which made it especially difficult to work with. Never the less, we made use of this spot. My clothes we getting a little ripe and saturated with sweat, so I decided to jump in fully clothed to give them a chance to rinse out. I swam around the lake for a few minutes, then exited and removed all my clothing and jumped back in. Then I became worried about being naked and snapping turtles. So I didn’t stay in very long. Angela decided to bring her helinox chair along and placed it into the water to bathe. The sun was beaming and I was really happy to finally get a chance to clean off. We both finished up and got back in the boat to head back to camp. We arrived back at camp by 5pm and I decided to collect some firewood, but I didn’t need much as there was already a decent pile left behind – probably from winter campers. I say that because not only was there evidence of snowmobiles accessing Greenleaf Lake, but the wood that was left over was cut with a chainsaw then split – and these were not small pieces of wood. They were also fairly dry, which implies they were not recent cuts and had probably been seasoning for a few months.
The dinner plan for tonight was one of two things – either Chili and Bannock or Lake trout and bannock. The problem with the second option is we needed to go catch a lake trout before that plan could actually come to fruition. I asked Angela if she wanted to come out fishing for dinner with me. She did! How awesome is this girl, eh? We loaded up the canoe with some tackle and our rods then made our way back up to the cliffs at the north end of the lake. My first instinct was to head to the falls flowing in from Lost Lake and cast into it. We did this for about 20 or 30 minutes and nothing – except a twig I managed to salvage from the bottom or the lake. I recommended we start trolling, so I instructed Angela to let out as much line as possible while I paddle us parallel to the cliff face. We did this and not 15 minutes later I had something. It resisted at first, but then stopped suddenly. I figured I had another twig or stick, but as I reeled it in, there was resistance again – this time I knew it was a fish! I pulled him up and into the canoe. BAM! Lake Trout for dinner tonight, not the biggest trout but should be enough for dinner. I unhooked him and Angela looked back and said ‘He’s cute, maybe we should let him go.’ I chuckled because we were out here to find dinner, so I told her to turn around and I did the deed. I thanked the spirits of Algonquin, Greenleaf and thanked the fish for his life. I started to paddle back to the campsite while Angela kept trolling. Not ten minutes later she hits a snag so I told her to reel it in and just as I said that, the snag pulled back. She was so excited. I spun the canoe around to give her a better advantage and sure enough – another lake trout! Slightly smaller than mine, and since the first one was on the smaller side I told her we would keep this one too and we’d have an all-out spring opener fish fry! We both had conservation licenses and were authorized to each keep a fish. Considering I’ve harvested less than a dozen trout from Algonquin Park since 2009, I didn’t feel like a glutton or anything like that – I set out to catch dinner with my girl and we did just that! I was so proud of her for bringing in a lake trout. She was happy too, but I insisted she should be more excited – I explained there are people who come from all over the world to catch the elusive Algonquin Trout and she should be thrilled she got one! I think she felt bad because these fish were destine for the frying pan. We got back to camp and I made quick work of cleaning and filleting the fish, while the bugs had their way with me. Back in 2012 on Head Lake I was taught a fairly solid method of filleting trout by my buddy Mark Steel – I had used it on every fish I harvested since then. The bugs were really starting to come out now, which made cleaning the fish a lot more challenging than it should have been. I was constantly being attacked by the little buggers.
Finally here - Greenleaf Lake
A few minutes later we arrived at the take out to our second and final portage of the day – a 3 part trail totalling 1,555m. I looked back at the marsh for one last glimpse of a moose, but nothing. We loaded up and started down the trail just before noon. This is a relatively easy portage trail as it follows a maintenance road for most of its length. When we completed the first section, Angela was surprised to be at the Hydro Field. I said let’s take a quick break but she wasn’t too happy about it. I forgot that I previously told her (last year) that problem bears are taken to the hydro field because there are ample amounts of berries for them and they’re likely not to leave. Oops. I didn’t think she would remember that. Oh well – we took a very short break and continued along the trail. When we re-entered the forest on the other side of the hydro field, we took another break. We were only 440m away from Greenleaf and I couldn’t have been happier. It was beginning to get really warm and I wanted to get to camp so I could take a swim and cool off. After a short break, it didn’t take long to cross the boulder-laden trail and arrive at Greenleaf Lake. As soon as I put the canoe down, I spotted a brook trout hiding among the sunken logs at this end of the lake. I quickly pointed it out to Angela and said I saw the same thing last time I was here – this lake must be teeming with fish! Angela was less than excited to see the brookie and was more interested in getting her pack off – it was really getting hot and that 1,555m portage didn’t help in that department. This put it is packed with jammed logs, and makes for an interesting launch.
We loaded up the boat and began our trek up Greenleaf Lake. Our target was either the 2nd or 3rd campsite up the lake. Knowing that one of those two would definitely be occupied, and the only other site on the lake isn’t too attractive. It’s not even at the cool end of Greenleaf – it’s at the south end where the lake looks like every other lake in Algonquin. BUT – once you get about a third of the way up the lake, you really start to see the changes. Rocky outcrops and boulder gardens on both left and right, and the shoreline becomes very steep, almost as if you are headed into a canyon. I decided to troll the lake on the way to camp, and dropped a line in the water. As we passed the first campsite, I could see it was unoccupied. I wasn’t surprised at this and we continued on. Although the other two sites are both amazing in their own way, I secretly wanted the middle site to be vacant. I had stayed at the last campsite every other time I camped on Greenleaf and had only visited the second campsite, but I remembered it was pretty cool and I wouldn’t mind switching it up on this trip. Unfortunately, when approaching the second campsite, I could see a tent and tarp set up. Oh well – can’t have ‘em all! The 3rd campsite has a rock couch and a great view of the cliffs, so on we went to stay there. By 1:15pm we landed at our campsite, our earliest arrival yet! It had been two years since I last stayed at this campsite and it pretty much remained unchanged in those two years. The stone couch was still intact, as was the huge fire pit. The other thing that remained unchanged were the bugs. I don’t know if it’s because of the rocks but this area always seems to be slightly buggier than other areas – I’ve observed this on all three stays on this campsite.
The giant rock retaining wall on Carcajou Lake
A view down the bay from the shore
With the fish filleted, I seasoned them with some fresh lemon, onion and black pepper. I then wrapped the fillets in foil and placed them into the coals for some slow-cooking action. We also had potatoes and bannock to go along with our fish. In addition to that we had a Mountain House dehydrated meal (pasta primavera) as a backup in case we didn’t catch any fish. We decided to have an all-out feast consisting of Fresh Lake Trout, roasted potatoes & onion, fresh baked bannock and pasta primavera – it was nothing short of sheer awesomeness. As dark settled in the bannock, potatoes, pasta and fish were all ready to go – the only thing missing was some daylight – I hate to eat in the dark – I don’t know why, but it just annoys me. Never the less the meal was perfect. Angela was fortunate enough to sample fresh Brook Trout on North Tea Lake on a previous trip (caught by a friend) and here she was eating fresh lake trout. She mentioned she preferred the Brookie, but that may have been due to how it was cooked. In my rush to fillet the fish while fending off the black flies, I missed two spots with bones. The bones don’t bother me as the meat flaked right off but it creeped Angela out a little bit.
Meadow before the hydro field
Nothing but sun on Carcajou Lake
Trout, onion, lemon and black pepper! Into the coals they go!
Trophy Shot: Angela isn't please with having to hold the fish for a photo
Our campsite on Greenleaf Lake
Calm paddle up Greenleaf Lake
Log jam at the put in to Greenleaf Lake
Beaver dam above Carcajou Lake
Oddly, just as it happened yesterday, as we were pulling out from the campsite another canoe was pulling in. They asked if the campsite was vacant and we said ‘Yup, it’s all yours!’ The one guy seemed baffled and even said ‘I can’t believe the best site on the lake is available!’ I then went on to tell him how we has acquired this campsite yesterday in the same fashion. They both laughed at the nuances of life and we parted ways. As we continued up Carcajou Lake I was paddling at a much slower pace than yesterday. We were in no rush to get to Greenleaf. I’ve been to the lake many times, and I know they only book two of the three campsites there, and luckily two of the three campsites are awesome – so it didn’t matter which one we arrived at because we knew we would end up with a great campsite either way! When approaching the end of Carcajou Lake the terrain on both right and left dramatically changes. Huge rocks jetting out from the high-hilled shoreline could be seen. A little further up the lake on the west side is a giant rock wall, probably 200m in length, or more. It’s truly amazing how different the east and west sides of Algonquin Park are, it’s like two completely different parks. By 11:20 am we landed at the take out to the 285m portage. Once again we made a quick carry over to the other side and were greeted by another huge beaver dam. I was really impressed with the condition of all the portages so far – no major issues at all. The beaver dam at the put in was holding back the entire marsh we had to travel through. If that dam wasn’t there, I do not know that this canoe route would ever be passable – it was easily holding up about 2 feet of water. We launch into the sedge meadow and I told Angela to keep her eyes open for wildlife – if there was a place for moose to hang out, this was it. We quietly paddled through the meadow and Angela was impressed with its beauty.
A view down the bay from up on the campsite
Tent perched up on a cliff
Great open campsite
Carcajou Lake to Greenleaf Lake
Today was another moving day, but not very far and only two portages. I was in no rush to leave this awesome campsite. About an hour after me, Angela emerged from the tent and was also super pleased to see the clear blue sky. I made her a coffee and me a second then we enjoyed the silence of the morning. More BLT's on bagels this morning. I have to admit, BLT’s are probably my most favorite breakfast food, camping or not! Once breakfast was finished, Angela cleaned the dishes while I began to dismantle our campsite. We were much faster this time around compared to yesterday, but we were in no rush. With everything packed up, we proceeded down to the water and loaded the canoe – we hit the water at exactly 11am.
tr 58: Little Carcajou - Carcajou - greenleaf
Day 3: Carcajou Lake - Greenleaf Lake
I woke up just after 7am and left the warmth and comfort of my sleeping bag. When I unzipped the tent door and looked outside, I was ecstatic to see nothing but a blue sky and no clouds – not one! I walked around the site basking in the warm sun for a bit, then I took the food bag down to get some coffee going. There are few things in this life that compare to a 7am coffee on a bright, sunny and peacefully quite morning in Algonquin Park. I often joke to people, ‘I go for the coffee’ and am amused by the look of confusion on their face while they process what I just said.